Seed Selection

Lawn seed is a prime example of “you get what you pay for” with cheaper options often containing components that are only included to keep the price down and can have lower germination which can have a detrimental effect on the outcome. All Barenbrug turf mixes have a minimum of 85% and above germination rates.

 

Select the appropriate Barenbrug Curator Blend for your situation keeping in mind that most grasses perform best in a sunny well drained positions. There are some varieties that do well in shaded areas, if an area is heavily shaded a shade tolerant ground cover may be a better option. It is also a good idea to avoid competition with the roots of larger trees and shrubs. 

 

Preparation

Remove all weeds and other grass types with a broad spectrum herbicide and leave for 10-14 days to ensure that all weeds have been killed. A new house site may have nery little topsoil and this may need to be enriched or a load of topsoil may be required. Sandy soil will require organic matter and clay soil with required gypsum. Remove any lumps, rocks, rubbish and plant material. Loosen the soil to a depth of 8cm and make the surface as even as possible avoiding humps and hollows where water will sit. Install watering and or drainage systems at this stage. 

 

Sowing Times

Spring and autumn are ideal times to plant lawn seed as there is usually adequate moisture and warm temperatures, both essential components of successful lawn establishment. Avoid the very cold months and hot dry months particularly if water restrictions are in place as germinating lawn seed must not be allowed to dry out. Sow the seed at the rate recommended on the Curator Bag. Seed should be broadcast on the surface and then raked lightly into the soil providing good seed to soil contact. A lawn starter fertiliser should be incorporated at this time. Keep some seed in reserve to patch up areas that were missed or get damaged while the lawn is establishing.

 

Watering

Keep the soil moist at all times while the seed is germinating, never let it dry out. It may be necessary to water for short periods several times a day if it is hot and dry.

 

Once the lawn has started to grow water daily and then reduce watering as the lawn becomes established. It is better to water deeply once or twice a week to encourage deeper root growth then to sprinkle daily which will cause shallow rooting that will not sustain the lawn during dryer periods. A wetting agent additive will help with water and nutrient retention. Do not water in the heat of the day and avoid night watering as this may encourage fungal diseases, early morning or late afternoon are good times, the watering times will also depend on water restrictions in your local area, check with your council on the regulations regarding establishment and watering of lawns.

 

Mowing

For new lawns mow when the grass is 8-10cm high taking off only the top 1/3 of the plant, young grass can be damaged by close mowing. Do not mow when the grass and the ground is damp and be careful not to drag the mower around corners as this can pull out the young plants.

 

For established lawns no more than one third of the leaf should be removed each time, also increasing the mower height can allow the root system of the grass to develop and maintain grass density . Let the length of the grass determine when it is time to mow.

 

Fertilising

The best time to fertilise is generally before a period of good rainfall in autumn and spring, however it is best to follow the instruction of the fertiliser supplier. For further advice contact your local distributor.

 

The information presented is offered in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and freedom from error. Barenbrug, its agents or advisors accepts no responsibility for any loss or actions arising from the above content.